Hey everyone, Jose here, going at it for another install! I know we said that we would have car show coverage, but that got placed on the back burner and never came to light. Mainly because life happened, and we have been somewhat busy so far this winter. Fear not! We have plenty coming up!
This install is not a professional job, and I know some will criticize some of my practices. Even then, I feel I did a very good job. Fair warning, you might have to tap into your stock wires to do this. There are ways to do parrot harnesses though. If you are truly committed, it can be a job well done. To begin this write-up, let me go through a few things you need:
12 Gauge Wire
18 Gauge Wire
10MM Deep Socket with Ratchet
Torx Screw Driver, Phillips Screw Driver (I had a set with all these bits)
Butt Connectors (Or A soldering iron)
Wire Splitters/Wire Cutters (I used a self-adjusting Wire Cutter)
Electrical tape (Or heat shrink, or both)
Wire Loom (Optional)
First off, you need to remove your center console completely, that’s where the 10mm socket and Screw Driver bits come into play. You can use the threads below for help on removing the center console.
Next, you need to get power going to the amplifier. I used the 12 Gauge wire to run the power to the battery.
I found a ground right in the center. (I made sure it was sanded)
Make sure you have 12 volts going to the amp by using your multimeter to measure.
Then, you will see the speaker wiring on the passenger foot-well.
You will want to cut the following wires at a good spot so that you can add wire to it (These are the colors for the MK3 Focus, make sure you know the color codes for wires on your vehicle):
Power Antenna YELLOW/ORANGE (+)
Left Front + WHITE
Left Front – WHITE/BROWN
Right Front + WHITE/PURPLE
Right Front – WHITE/ORANGE
Left Rear + BROWN/GREEN out of the HU, WHITE/GREEN back to the speaker (color changes at this connector)
Left Rear – BROWN/YELLOW
Right Rear + BROWN/WHITE
Right Rear – BROWN/BLUE
For my amplifier the wiring went as so:
Left Front +: WHITE
Left Front -: WHITE/BLACK
Right Front +: GRAY
Right Front -: GRAY/BLACK
Left Rear +: GREEN
Left Rear-: GREEN/BLACK
Right Rear +: PURPLE
Right Rear -: PURPLE/BLACK
Use the 12 gauge wire to connect the speaker wires to the input and outout wires from amp. Cut to necessary lengths depending on placement. The wires coming from up top, they are connected to the speaker input wires. Those wires come from the radio. The wires that go down into the connector are connected the the speaker output wires. Make sure you match them up correctly. Also, the Antenna wire from the amp only needs to be spliced in, so if you cut the stock wire, make sure you connect it back together with blue antenna wire spliced in. All other stock speaker wires will be separated. I actually disconnected the connector so that I can easily solder the wires. Also, test in DCV for 4.95 or so volts at each wire to make sure there is current.
Here are the wires that go into the speaker output:
And here are the wires that go to the amp’s speaker input:
They come from these top wires as so. (crappy picture but you get the idea)
Finally, clean it up by taping or using wire loom on the wires up to make the job a clean and stealthy install. I used my electrical tape, but obviously there are way better means, but the install came out how I wanted.
I actually adjusted the sound when everything was torn apart. You get the options for 90hz, 60hz, and flat crossovers. You can also change the input sensitivity between high and low. Overall, this amp supplies more than enough power for this type of install. I have cheapo Scosche HD speakers from Wal-Mart up front, and stock speakers in the rear. So, to take full advantage, I will most likely upgrade to high quality speakers. I am thinking of getting component speakers to really get clarity across each level of sound. Thanks for tuning in, and hope you learned a lot from this write-up, Godspeed!